If you’ve ever stood over a laundry basket thinking, “It’s probably fine,” you’re not alone. The tricky part is that some fabrics tolerate a little experimentation, and others punish it immediately—sometimes in ways that can’t be reversed (shrinkage, water spotting, texture changes, warped shape, color shifts).
As a rule: the care label is the first and best instruction. (And yes—care labels exist for a reason.)
But if you want a simple professional “default” that prevents most heartbreak, these are the five fabrics we recommend you treat as dry-clean-first—especially when the item is structured, lined, darkly dyed, or special-occasion quality.
Modern professional dry cleaners may use traditional solvent cleaning, professional wet cleaning, or a combination depending on the garment. The key is that a cleaner can control chemistry, moisture, agitation, drying, and finishing in ways home laundry cannot.
1. Silk
Silk is beautiful because it’s smooth, light, and fluid—and that’s exactly why it’s risky to wash at home. Many silks can be damaged by water and agitation. In a University of Hawai‘i CTAHR textile care guide, silk’s preferred cleaning method is explicitly stated as dry-cleaning, noting that silk filaments are more susceptible to breakage when wet and can be harmed even by gentle washing-machine agitation.
Why silk and home washing don’t always mix:
- Fiber vulnerability when wet: can weaken, stress, or roughen the surface.
- Agitation risk: the fabric can abrade, shift, or lose that crisp “new” hand.
- Finish and sheen changes: silk can come back looking slightly dulled or “textured” compared to its original smoothness.
What we recommend at home before you bring it in:
- If it’s not truly dirty, air it out. Silk refreshes well with ventilation.
- For a fresh spill: blot—don’t rub, and don’t “chase” the stain with water unless the label clearly allows washing.
- Bring it in sooner rather than later; old stains set and become harder to remove safely.
Dry-cleaning advantage: controlled cleaning + professional pressing/finishing to restore drape and surface.
2. Wool & Cashmere
Wool is resilient in wear, but it’s famously unforgiving in laundry—especially with heat, tumbling, and friction. While wool can be wet- or dry-cleaned, dry-cleaning is the preferred method to minimize shrink risk, and wool shrinkage commonly occurs from wet laundering and tumble drying.
And here’s the practical reality: even when a wool sweater can be hand washed, many wool garments are not just “fabric”—they’re engineered. Coats, blazers, suit jackets, and structured skirts can include interlinings and canvases that react poorly to water and drying.
Why wool often belongs at the cleaner:
- Shrink/felting risk from moisture + agitation + heat.
- Shape distortion in structured garments (lapels, shoulder structure, hems).
- Finish matters: professional pressing brings wool back to crisp, not “puffy” or rippled.
What to do between cleanings:
- Brush with a soft garment brush to lift surface dust and keep fibers looking sharp.
- Steam lightly to relax wrinkles and refresh.
- Spot-blot and bring it in for proper treatment if the stain is noticeable.
Dry-cleaning advantage: minimal shrink risk + professional finishing that maintains the garment’s architecture.
3. Rayon / Viscose
Rayon (often labeled viscose) is a frequent “surprise fabric.” It feels silky, drapes nicely, and shows up everywhere—from dresses to blouses to linings. But rayon is often not particularly durable, and it can be vulnerable during laundering.
CTAHR specifically recommends dry-cleaning for rayon to prevent fibers from breaking and notes that putting rayon in a dryer can cause shrinkage.
Industry guidance also commonly flags rayon/viscose as weak when wet and prone to shrink/distortion.
Why rayon is a dry-cleaning “default”:
- Weakness when wet: stretching, ripping, seam stress, bubbling, or puckering.
- Drape distortion: rayon’s whole charm is its flow; home washing can change it permanently.
- Shrink risk in drying: even if the wash seems “fine,” the dryer can be the point of no return.
At-home best practice:
- Treat rayon like a “no heat, no tumble” material unless the label explicitly says otherwise.
- If something smells “lived-in” but isn’t stained, steaming and airing often does the job.
Dry-cleaning advantage: controlled process that protects drape and fiber integrity.
4. Velvet
Velvet isn’t just a fiber—it’s a construction (a fabric with a raised pile). That pile is what gives velvet its depth and glow, and it’s also what’s easiest to ruin.
Some modern velvets are washable, especially certain synthetics. But when we’re talking about “always dry clean” advice, I’m talking about true/pure velvet garments (and anything with a structured velvet build). Dry-clean pure velvet to avoid damage, but some polyester/crushed velvets may be washable.
Why velvet so often belongs at a cleaner:
- Pile crushing: washing, wringing, friction, and even improper pressing can flatten the texture.
- Water marking and texture shifts: velvet can dry unevenly and telegraph marks.
- Finishing is specialized: good velvet finishing avoids “shiny” pressure spots and restores the surface.
At-home best practice:
- Use a steamer instead of an iron.
- If you must store it, give it space—velvet hates being crushed in a tight closet.
Dry-cleaning advantage: correct cleaning method + correct finishing so the pile stays lush and even.
5. Leather, Fur & Suede
Leather, fur, and suede are in their own category because they aren’t woven fabrics—but they’re common “dry clean” closet items, and they’re easy to damage with well-meant DIY cleaning.
Iowa State University Extension advises that if staining occurs, you should take leather to a professional suede/leather cleaner as soon as possible and not try spot removal at home.
Similarly, a University of Kentucky Extension stain guide explicitly advises: do not treat suede, leather, or fur—take them to a dry cleaner that specializes in leather or fur care.
Why leather, fur, and suede should go out for cleaning:
- Water can permanently spot suede and change texture.
- Household stain removers can strip finishes, alter dyes, or create hardened patches.
- Conditioning and refinishing are part of the job—not just “cleaning.”
At-home best practice:
- For dust: wipe leather with a clean, dry cloth; brush suede gently with a suede brush.
- For moisture: air dry away from heat (no hair dryer, no radiator).
- For stains: resist the urge to “fix it” with soap or stain spray—bring it in.
Professional advantage: specialized processes for cleaning + reconditioning so the material stays supple and presentable.
A Rule of Thumb
If a garment is made of any of the five materials above, we strongly consider dry cleaning first—especially if it’s:
- Lined or structured (blazers, coats, formal dresses)
- Dark, saturated, or high-contrast in color
- Special-occasion or expensive-to-replace
- Textured (pile, nap, natural, suede-like surfaces)
Even mainstream garment-care guidance commonly groups silk, wool, velvet, suede/leather, and similar delicate materials as “best left to a professional” when you want to avoid ruining the item. For all of your Snellville dry cleaning needs, trust Deeya Cleaners located on Scenic Highway. Our eco friendly dry cleaning systems and processes work on most fabrics.